"Snake!", comes the call from behind me. I whip around. Fight or flee?
Fight or flee? FIGHT OR FLEE? Jen stands frozen in place. Franticly I search the ground in front of her, but I can't see any movement or hear that telltale hissing sound. WHERE IS IT? "Oh no," Jen says, "it's dead. But you stepped on it Hendri." She laughs at the look of horror that crosses my face. I walk back and inspect the body that lies on the track, my footprint clearly etched across the center of its body. It's hard to tell what kind of snake it is, since something has chewed its head off. The coloring of the snake is yellow with black bands and it does not have the diamond patterned skin associated with an adder, must be a Cape Cobra. But the worst thing is how perfectly it blends with the track. Alive or dead, I would have stepped on it. Silently I thank whatever creature had killed it. I would not like to meet whatever animal is capable of eating a cobra's head off, but I am thankful that it did. I had stepped on the snake, mainly because I was looking at the stunning waterfalls that surrounded the valley we were hiking through. "So," I think to myself, "eyes on the trail from now on. Ignore the surrounding scenery." Thirty seconds later, Jen calls out: "Hendri, you just stepped on something again!" My heart does a flip flop. "Oh for #@&@'s sake," I think to myself, "How blind can a person BE?!?" I walk back...again. This time I had stepped on the body of a lizard, also perfectly blended into the trail. By now I'm kinda freaked out. I have to walk lead on this section of the hike, along a trail that is mostly obscured by overhanging vegetation. But, there is nothing for it, I'm responsible for this hike and I'll just have to suck it up. Fortunately, no more critters (alive or dead) appeared for the rest of the hike.
This Sunday past saw myself and three friends (Adriaan, Jen and Ben) hike from the Jonkershoek valley, up over the Kurktrekker, down Boegoekloof, down Suicide Gorge and over some or the other mountain to the Nuweberg forestry station. All in all, an epic hike that took over 9 hours to complete. Fortunately, the weather was absolutely perfect. It was nice and overcast while we had to complete the hot trek over the Kurktrekker. Going down Boegoekloof, the sun emerged from behind the clouds and by the time we had to brave the icy pools of Suicide Gorge, it was nice and warm. Hiking back in the afternoon to the Nuweberg station, the skies once more became cloudy and the hike was nice and cool. The only snag was that due to the lack of sunlight in the morning, the plants on the trail were moisture laden. Consequently, we were soaked through and through for most of the hike. And keeping your footing in slippery grass resulted in many hilarious incidents where one or more of us would suddenly loose their footing, do a funny jig of flying feet and flailing arms, before unceremoniously landing on your ass.
The hike down Boegoekloof was stunning. I have never seen that valley so full of water. Everywhere you looked, there were stunning waterfalls, the swimming pools in the river were full to the rim and the valley was covered in vibrant plant life. So except for the whole snake incident, it was one of the best hikes ever.
We reached Suicide Gorge just before 13:00. Here we decided to have a relaxing lunch before attempting the descent. After lunch, everybody stripped down to the bare minimum, namely shoes (in the case of Adriaan barefoot) and a swimming costume. Everything was packed securely into our backpacks, because the last thing you want is for your pack to burst open when it impacts the water. Oh yes, and a quick visit to the nearest bush, because by this time the adrenaline was coursing through my veins. Basically, Suicide Gorge works like this: Once your in, you can't turn back. So if you are afraid of heights or falling, I would not recommend it, unless you are trying to overcome your fear of heights and falling. Then this will be the perfect setting for you to face your fears. The first compulsory jump is about 6 meters high, a little higher than the diving platform at the Coetzenburg swimming pool. What makes that first jump scary is not so much the height, but the fact that the water is so dark that you have no clue where the bottom is. Here I learned the most important lesson when you want to jump. Under NO CIRCUMSTANCES are you to think. As soon as you think, survival instinct kicks in and you freeze into place. So, with a mind absolutely devoid of thought :-) I jumped. From there on in, we scrambled over boulders and jumped into deep icy pools. I think the worst part of jumping is when you throw your backpack over edge ahead of you. Because, firstly, you now HAVE to jump otherwise you lose your backpack. The second thing is the sound your bag makes when it hits the water. It's this deep WHUMP sound. And you know that in a couple of seconds, your body is going to make the same sound when it hits the water.
As you descend through the kloof, the jumps become progressively higher. 8 meters, 10 meters, 8 meters, and then the second last one is a compulsory jump of 12 meters. When you stand on that ledge, the water looks mighty dark and hard from up there. At this point you start to question your sanity, and whether you will actually survive the jump. Right before I jumped, I had a thought. Big mistake. At the last possible split second I felt my body freeze up. Suddenly I felt the edge yawning underneath me. My heart tried climbing out of my mouth and I went weak at the knees. Very unceremoniously I scrambled back from the ledge. It felt like hours before I could take myself in hand again and approach the ledge. This time I was very careful to keep my mind blank. Right after the edge, there is this steep ledge that is too steep to stand on, but makes for quite a nifty launch pad. So, stepping forward, I launched myself out into empty air. With no time to scream, I hit the water with a perfect splash. Oh yes, when you hit the water, remember to keep your hands to your sides when you hit the water, otherwise your hands are going to hurt from slapping the water. Reaching the other side of the pool, I spread myself on the warm rock next to Adriaan and waited for Jen to jump. It's interesting, when you watch someone who is about to do something extreme, you can
see the thoughts flitting across there faces. First there is the wide eyed look, then panic as they realise what they are about to do, followed by a look of determination as they gather their courage for that leap of faith. Sometimes, the whole sequence of events is repeated as their survival instinct kicks in and they have to start from scratch. That is why I say, don't think when you must jump, thinking only gets in the way. Otherwise you have to find that split second where you have just fooled yourself into believing that you will survive the jump, and your mind going: "No bloody way".
For the last jump of the day, one is faced with a choice. Do a "normal" jump of about 10 meters, or climb to an outcropping a little higher; and do a 16 meter jump (which is about the height of the third story of the Engineering building). When I reached the ledge of the outcropping and looked down, I felt ill. Right there I decided that there was no way I would be able to do it, blank mind or not. I had already turned away to climb back down when a stray thought stopped me. "What if I actually managed to DO this?" I mean, no one would blame me for taking the lesser jump. After all, everyone else was taking the smaller jump. But this, this would be me screaming my defiance at death, laughing all the way. OK, a bit dramatic, I know. But have you ever been faced with your own mortality, and made a conscious decision to risk your own life? Believe me, when you have made that choice, I do not think your brain is functioning within normal parameters.
So I sent up a little prayer. It was a very basic plea, made by men throughout the ages to their deities. "Please God, don't let me die." So I stood on the ledge, looking down, thinking. I know, I said that under no circumstances must one think, but this was different. I started by doing the breathing exercises that Rosalind had taught me to relax and slow your heart down. Then, calmly, I stared at the roiling waters beneath me. I let the sounds of the insects behind me, and the thunder of the waterfall to my right wash over me. I could feel the warm sunlight caressing my back, and the spray of the water cooling my front. I'm not sure how to describe what happened next. It felt like the water surface beneath me was suddenly nearer. I could see every ripple and swirl. My mind felt suspended. I wasn't outside my body, but it definitely felt decidedly weird. Like my body and mind were two entities. I did not need to gather my courage, I simply stepped over the edge.
Previously, Adriaan and I had joked about how to measure the height of a jump. We measured it in the number of thoughts one has before hitting the surface. Up until now, most jumps had had a maximum of two thoughts. This one had four. They went like this: "Oh no, oh no, oh NO, OH CRAP!" WHAM! Notice the wording, not splash; wham. That's because when I was coming down, my body had started rotating forward. So instead of entering the water cleanly like Adriaan had advised me, that water hit me like I was a two bit hooker and it was my pimp. And because I was still trying to correct my fall, my arms had still been out to my sides, so my hands had slapped onto the water with searing effect. But the pain in my hands was nothing compared to the pain I felt in the left side of my upper torso. I clearly remember what my first thought was down in the dark icy depths of that pool. "Please God, don't let my ribs be broken." As I extended my left arm above my head to start clawing my way back to the surface, I felt a rush of relief as the resulting pain was only that of bruised muscles, and not the sharp pain of a rib poking into my lung.
The rest of the trip down the kloof was uneventful. The only really scary thing was when we stopped at the trail that takes one back to the Nuweberg forestry station. Here Jen took out some bananas that she had had in her bag. The bananas where pulp. Not bruised or just split open. They looked like they had been put through a grinder. So if that is what happens to bananas that have been securely packed in the middle of the backpack, what happens to a person's nice and soft organs when you hit the water?
The last bit of the hike was nice and quiet. Except for me. We were about an hour late and our lift was scheduled to arrive at the forest station at any minute. So, since I was the only one with a cellphone and Adriaan was the most experienced hiker, I had to run ahead to try and reach a point where I could phone our lift and tell him we were going to be late. All I will say is, it's not fun running with bruised chest muscles.
All of us finally reached the pickup point safely. It was a bunch of tired but satisfied hikers that climbed into my car and headed home. The Americans lasted about 5 minutes before falling asleep :-)
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Ruadh gu brath!